Adios, Ciao, Bye
I never made it to the beach here. Sad... But there are a few palm trees in Santiago.
Live vicariously this summer by following the travels and adventures of Rebecca Folmar and Nathan Clendenin.
Things here are winding down for the photogs. I'm working on timings to sync the photos and audio. Yesterday and today we're covering the huge festival that's going on here. Nobody really knows which holiday they're celebrating but one of them is about Saint James or something. They lit up the cathedral last night with a beautiful display of fireworks. I'll try to snag a photo from one of the others who was assigned to shoot that, because I had a terrible view from the carnival where I was stationed. I ran into some crazy Galicians later who insisted I join them for a beer. It didn't take much to twist my arm because I had been shooting the rides for way too long. They were all about my age and it was good to get their perspective on many things, including American politics (uck), and Galicia and the fight for independence from Spain (a recent mini-bomb went off here a few days ago, it was no big deal in the end but of course caused a little scare). I also told them all about North Carolina. In the end it was quite a cultural exchange. I'm off now to continue shooting the festival. Today I'm assigned to the big square in front of the Cathedral.
My time in Vilarello, Galicia was wonderful. A town of about 10 people, it is tucked far up into the mountains where the loudest sound is the buzzing of bees. I accompanied another student, Anna, who is doing a story on the village, which likely will not exist in 10 years. There was an issue of her safety with some of the villagers, so I gladly went along. I wrote captions for the Rapa photos, hiked a bit and had a chance to clear my head and breathe deeply. The trip took over 3 hours to get there, with the last hour spent winding narrow roads, hoping another car wasn't coming down.
Things here are coming together slowly. The audio people (who are mostly Galicians) almost had a mutiny yesterday. I was out shooting some final shots for the stone story, but apparently they do not like the direction they're being given. Things seem to be much calmer today as people finish up audio, write captions and tone their images. We're having a big meeting tonight to look at all the photos, hear the audio that's done and probably deal with any big issues. Everyone here is really stretched to learn how to work with others. And I was thinking the other day that this project is really quite ambitious in what it is trying to accomplish, and I don't know of any other quite like it. So it's very natural for there to be plenty of kinks and problems along the way, since most here have not done this before. And we also keep coming back to the fact that, "Hey, we're in Spain!"
I write this entry from my car, overlooking a huge quarry while listening to classical music. I am waiting for the light to soften a bit before I take a photo. Why am I taking photos of a quarry? Well, just as things were winding down with the Rapa story (writing captions, doing a final edit to go with the audio, etc) me and my sound person, Jessica, were assigned another mini-story about stoneworkers. Apparently Galicia is famous all over Europe for its stonework, and I can see why, because almost everything is made of beautiful old stone. So I’ve been shooting a story about a guy who is restoring a stone house (a 4 year project for him and his crew) as well as visiting some quarries and other places where rock is cut and shaped a bit. It’s been another pretty fun story, although tracking down all these people and places has been a source of frustration between me and Jessica, since our way of doing things is slightly different. I like to ask all the questions up front (like, “Will you be working with stone when we come tomorrow?”) and it seems Jessica is a little more timid about asking strangers about their schedule (and since she’s doing most of the talking b/c I don’t speak Gallego, she has to be the person to ask). I had my first real argument in Spanish, as a result, but things are ok now. Jessica is trying to finish editing all the audio from the Rapa into a 3 minute piece, which also presents a challenge, and taking time away from her to do this mini-story is probably not the best idea. But if I’ve learned anything in Photojournalism, it’s that there always plenty of problems to be solved. I am probably also going to help out with another story that is in a very remote village. I’m told it’s absolutely beautiful. I am mostly coming along to help with driving and some Spanish. I’m excited to see more of Spain! There are plenty of things that us photographers have been complaining about (most things due to lack of communication from above), but we always come back to the fact that we’re in Spain!
Sunday marks the last day I will be shooting for my story. The past two days I've been visiting the little town, Amil, where the Rapa will take place. Today I trampsed around in the woods amidst the mountains following those who herd the wild horses together then take them to a pin where they're kept until it's time for the shaving. About every other thought was, "I can't believe I'm in the middle of Spain chasing wild horses. Is this for real?" All the other thoughts though were about Rebecca in London, a city that despite it's relative proximity, seems worlds away. I wish I could have beamed her in today for the hike, as I know how much she would have enjoyed it.
I have been out shooting three days now, and finally had today to take a breather. I met with various members of our group so we could all get on the same page about what the story is and how we're going to tell it. I think the biggest challenge so far has been that we all have different ideas about how to do things, and various levels of experience and skill. Those trained at UNC (myself and the designer) know how our director Rich wants things to be, but the others do not, and apparently have not been told. Things like, we absolutely have to have names of all the people in the photos, unless it is totally impossible. Today was a bit frustrating as I realized we were all lacking bits of important information. For instance, I just learned from the designer today that the enter site is going to be about "The Ancient Way" or traditional ways of doing things that are changing or dying out. For me personally, I also struggle with knowing how and when to step in, as a leader, and help guide things. With this group, that is not a very easy thing to do. So I am surprised that the challenges with this project are not in photography, but in working with others. I think for today, I'll give myself a 3 or 4, but of course I am aiming for the 5. You may view a rough edit of about 30 images from the 3 day festival in Sabucedo. I am shooting one more festival this weekend and then will pretty much be done shooting, although I will keep shooting other things on my own.
At 5pm Friday I was told I would be leaving the next day to cover a traditional festival called "Rapa Das Bestas" (that's a Galician term for Shaving the Beasts). It started in the Bronze age when people lived out among the wild horses, and would shave their manes and tails in the summer to keep them cooler. But now it's a tradition, where people from small villages gather horses from the mountains then herd them into the town where they tackle each horse and remove their hair. As you can imagine it gets quite wild in the ring and I'm happy to say that I'm still alive, even though I was in there with them today! It is going to turn into a great story, I think, as we continue gathering content (photos and audio) from various other villages that do the Rapa Das Bestas. I am working with a Galician student, Jessica, who does audio and a graphic designer and infographics person. The good news is, our deadline to have all the photos turned in is July 17, so I will have some free time in Spain! Look for more photos once I have more free time. I shot over 1,000 the first day, but I'm going on a 250/day diet from now on. Now I'm headed to bed because we're up early again tomorrow.
After a delayed flight (6 for 6!), I arrived in Santiago Thursday afternoon without a hitch. Caught the bus into town, found some directions to my dorm and was able to check in a day early. The room is quite nice, with lots of light from a skylight sort of thing that I can swing open to let in air. The photo is a view from my room if I stick my head out. That cathedral is one of the most beautiful I've seen. La Sagrada Familia in Barcelona is still my favorite though.